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Useful Information

JP4 pinout

The right angle connector has the following pinout (starting from the pin near JP1):

JP4 Pin Arduino Shield Pin Description
1 0 D0, Serial RX, PCINT16
2 1 D1, Serial TX, PCINT17
3 2 D2, INT0, PCINT18
4 3, PWM D3, OC2B, INT1, PCINT19
5 4 D4, XCK, T0, PCINT20
6 5 D5, OC0B, T1, PCINT21
7 6, PWM D6, OC0A, AIN0, PCINT22
8 7 D7, AIN1, PCINT23
9 8 B0, CLKO, ICP1, PCINT0
10 9, PWM B1, OC1A, PCINT1
11 10, PWM B2, SPI Slave Select, OC1B, PCINT2
12 11, PWM B3, SPI MOSI, OC2A, PCINT3
13 12 B4, SPI MISO, PCINT4
14 13 B5, SPI SCK, PCINT5
15 Ground Ground
16 Aref AREF, coupled via 100uH inductor and 100nF capactor
17 Analog 0 C0, ADC0, PCINT8
18 Analog 1 C1, ADC1, PCINT9
19 Analog 2 C2, ADC2, PCINT10
20 Analog 3 C3, ADC3, PCINT11
21 Analog 4 C4, ADC4, SDA, PCINT12
22 Analog 5 C5, ADC5, SCL, PCINT13
23 Vin Vin (from the DC jack)
24 +5V +5V
25 Reset Reset (active low), C6, PCINT14

 

Solder Jumpers

On the underside of the board are a number of solder jumpers.

Underneath D1, cutting the trace between the solder jumper disables the indicator LED. It can be reconnected by bridging the pads with solder.

Underneath R2 to R4, cutting the traces between the 2 leftmost pads (on each set of 3) disables the USB connection. Bridging the right set swaps the D- and D+ lines (useful if you want to have the computer wake the microcontroller from sleep - note that you will need to patch the bootloader if you do this).